Dirty Harry, Eagle's Nest

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Dirty Harry is a popular climb and rightly so, due to its steep climbing in a deep chimney. Don't worry, there's no off-width climbing, but a little chimney techinque may com in handy depending on how it's formed. Stemming may prove useful. It's a landmark at the cliff and is in plain sight from Tim Horton's across the street. The start can be committing, when the climb is in lean shape, but it usually fattens up, as you climb up higher. It's more than half a rope-length, so double ropes are required for the rap from the trees at the top, but you could also descend over the curtain to climber's left.

To get to Eagle's Nest drive to Bancroft. Drive around, until you find the Tim Horton's, then look across the street! Get yourself a coffee and donut, then park in the lot behind the little plaza. Hike in - following tracks. Dirty Harry is the obvious chimney climb!

Season: The route is usually climbable from mid-December to mid-March.

Gear: A std ice rack will usually suffice. A knifeblade and an angle pin may come in handy in lean years, as would some Tricams. A 70 m rope comes in handy if lowering to the ground after your climb, and/or for setting up a TR.

 

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